Microblading and permanent brow makeup are among the most frequent requests at the centre. The reasons vary: a line that is too dark, a shape that no longer suits, a colour that has turned red over the years, or simply the wish to return to natural brows.
The laser works on these pigments. But it should not be approached like a tattoo on an arm. The skin of the brow is thin, the pigments are different, and the hairs are close by.
Microblading and permanent makeup: what is in the skin
Microblading is a manual tattoo technique: a blade deposits pigment in the epidermis and the superficial dermis to draw hairs. Permanent makeup, or PMU, uses a machine and often goes a little deeper, with a filling or shading effect.
The pigments used are not the same as those of a classic tattoo. They include iron oxides, titanium dioxide, organic pigments and sometimes mixes. Colours change with time, under the effect of the sun and the skin: a brown can turn red, a black can turn blue or grey.
It is this composition that makes brow tattoo removal particular.
Why cosmetic pigments react differently
A cosmetic pigment is deposited closer to the surface than a tattoo ink, and its composition is different. It can contain metallic compounds added to obtain a bright colour or good coverage.
Under the laser, these compounds can change colour. Titanium dioxide, used for white and light tones, can darken to grey or black. Iron oxides can go from red to dark brown. This phenomenon is well documented, and it is more frequent with Q-switched lasers than with picosecond lasers.
The colour you see is not always the colour you will treat. A brown brow can hide a red or orange pigment. A first session can reveal that deeper layer, which does not mean the treatment has failed.
The possible colour changes
Three scenarios come up often.
The brow turns red or orange. This is frequent with old brown pigments. The 532 nm laser targets these shades well. Several sessions are sometimes needed, and the colour can seem brighter before it fades.
The brow turns grey or blue. This happens with certain black or cool brown pigments. The 1064 nm is then more suitable. Here too, the colour can change during treatment.
The brow stays dark despite the sessions. The pigment may be deep, dense, or made of an ink that responds poorly. The wavelength and the strategy then have to be reassessed, not just the energy increased.
In the literature, the review by Geisler and co-authors concludes that the picosecond Nd:YAG laser is faster and more effective than the Q-switched laser for brow tattoos, and that paradoxical darkening is less frequent with it. That does not remove the need for a test.
The risk of darkening
Darkening is the most specific complication of cosmetic pigments. It can be immediate, during the session, or appear in the days that follow. It mainly concerns white, beige, pale pink and certain reds.
A test on a small area, ideally at the tail of the brow, shows the reaction. Several weeks are then allowed. If the area darkens, the practitioner can change approach, adjust the wavelength or discuss another technique.
Some practitioners use an ablative CO2 laser for cosmetic pigments, precisely because it does not target colour and avoids darkening. That is an option to discuss case by case, not a universal solution.
Hair and the natural brow
The laser does not perfectly distinguish ink from hair. The melanin in the hair also absorbs part of the energy. Hairs can therefore lighten, become finer or fall out temporarily.
Regrowth is frequent, but it can be lighter or thinner. The risk increases with energy and the number of passes. An experienced practitioner protects the hairs, adapts the spot size and avoids treating healthy skin unnecessarily.
If your brows are naturally fine or light, mention it before the session. A photo of your brows before the microblading helps to know what is left underneath.
How many sessions for brows
There is no universal figure. Microblading generally needs fewer sessions than a body tattoo, because the pigment is less dense and deposited less deeply; an old, heavily loaded or covered pigment will need more. We estimate it after seeing your brows.
Brows are small, but the skin is thin and caution is required. A session that is too strong can leave a scar or a light patch, which would be particularly visible on the face. Better to move slowly.
To understand the factors that vary this number, read how many sessions to plan.
The consultation and the test
The consultation starts with a photo and a few questions: the date of the microblading, the number of touch-ups, the original colour, the products used if you know them, any history of scarring or herpes, a possible pregnancy.
The practitioner looks at the skin, the fineness of the hairs, the current colour and any older pigment. They then propose a test on a small area, followed by several weeks before judging.
It is also the moment to talk about the calendar. A brow takes several days to heal, and the area stays visible. If you have an event planned, better to postpone the session.
After the session
The area can be red, swollen and sensitive for 24 to 48 hours. Small scabs then form. They must not be scratched.
The usual instructions apply: keep the area clean, avoid makeup on the treated area for at least 24 to 48 hours, do not expose it to the sun, do not go to the hammam or the pool until the skin has healed. Detailed care is in aftercare following a session.
Hairs may seem lighter or sparser in the days that follow. Wait for regrowth before judging.
Having microblading again afterwards
Many people want to erase an old line in order to have a more natural one. It is possible, but you have to wait until the skin is fully healed and the pigment faded enough.
The delay depends on the skin’s response. The practitioner checks suppleness, colour and the absence of inflammation before re-pigmenting. Re-pigmenting too early on still fragile skin increases the risk of poor retention and of scarring.
Finally, accept that brow removal does not always restore a perfectly untouched brow. The skin sometimes keeps a slight tint or a different texture. The goal is to get back a brow that looks like you, not to promise total erasure.